Quezon Memorial Shrine (Quezon City, Metro Manila

Quezon Memorial Shrine

The Quezon Memorial Shrine (Filipino: Pambansang Pang-alaalang Dambana ni Quezon), a triangle-shaped, Art Deco-themed monument dedicated to former Philippine President Manuel Quezon, serves as the centerpiece within the grounds of the Quezon Memorial Circle.

Check out “Quezon Memorial Shrine” and “Museo ni Manuel L. Quezon”

 

Statue of Manuel Quezon

Statue of Manuel Quezon historical plaque

Here’s the historical timeline of the memorial:

  • On December 17, 1945, it was established by virtue of Executive Order No. 79 signed by then-President Sergio Osmeña.
  • In 1951, a national contest for the Quezon Memorial Project was held and architect Federico Ilustre‘s design won. Aside from the monument itself, also planned to be erected were a complex of three auxiliary structures (presidential library, museum, and theater) which were never built.
  • In 1952, the Bureau of Public Works commenced the construction of the monument
  • Between 1957 and 1958, the monument was completed
  • On September 24, 1972, the monument was placed under the jurisdiction of the National Historical Institute through Presidential Decree No.1 issued by then President Ferdinand Marcos .
  • On January 14, 1974, the monument was formally designated as a national shrine.
  • On August 19, 1978 (the 100th anniversary of Quezon’’s birth), the memorial was inaugurated.
  • On August 1, 1979, the remains of former President Manuel Quezon was transferred to a mausoleum at the foot of the monument at the Quezon Memorial Shrine from the Manila North Cemetery.
  • In 1989, 31 marble bas reliefs on Philippine history and the life of Pres. Quezón, created by the father and son team of Manuel and Ron Casal, were installed around the base of the memorial.
  • On April 28, 2005, the 26th anniversary of her assassination, the remains of Quezon’s wife Aurora Aragon Quezon, were likewise transferred to the shrine from the Manila North Cemetery.
  • On March 12, 2020, the shrine was recognized by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines as a National Cultural Treasure (NCT)
  • In December 2021, the declaration was made public.

The 66-m. (217-ft.) shrine, representing Quezon’s age when he died from tuberculosis stands, on a 36-hectare elliptical lot. Its observation deck (currently not open to the public), with a panoramic view of the city, is accessed via a spiral staircase (now an elevator) from the bottom of the structure and can accommodate 60 people at the top.

Historical Plaque of the shrine

At the top of the three towering, connected pylons (covered with white Carrara marble from Italy) are The Three Muses, stone mourning winged angels (representing the three main island groups of the Philippines – Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao), sculpted by the Italian sculptor Francesco Riccardo Clementi Monti (1888-1958), with their heads bowed (as if mourning Quezon) and holding sampaguita (Jasminum sambac, the national flower) wreaths. The flower symbolizes purity and fidelity as it root words sumpa kita means “I promise you.”

The Three Muses

The regional identity of each female angel figure could be discerned from the distinctive and traditional baro’t saya (blouse and skirt) combination they were clothed with.  For of Luzon, the muse is wearing a traje de mestiza, with an embroidered pañuelo (shawl) worn over her camisa (blouse).

For the Visayas, the muse is wearing a kimona (blouse) with short “butterfly” shoulders, and an alampay (kerchief) draped over her shoulder. For Mindanao, the muse is wearing a tight fitting biyatawi (blouse) with a patadyong (skirt) wrapped over the sawal (trousers), and a kambut (sash) draped across her chest.

Quezon’s catafalque

The three pylons would, in turn, circumscribe a drum-like, two-storey structure containing a gallery from which visitors could look down at Quezon’s catafalque (modeled after Napoleon Bonaparte’s in the Invalides), elevated on a marble plinth in the center.

Check out “L’Hotel des Invalides

The oculus

The gallery and the catafalque below are lit by an oculus (in turn reminiscent of Grant’s Tomb) surrounded by three heads of carabaos believed to have also been sculpted by Monti and mounted in 1958. The tomb of his wife First Lady Aurora Aragon Quezon is in a niche on the side of the room.

Tomb of First Lady Aurora Quezon

On the second level, above the circular crypt, is a 3.35 m. high statue of Quezon (originally located outside the memorial) atop a 4.26 m. high marble pedestal sculpted by the late National Artist Guillermo Tolentino and installed in 1978, depicting Quezon delivering his fiery speech when he was elected president of the Commonwealth.

Statue of Manuel Quezon (Guillermo Tolentino)

Pietro “Piero” Amberti, an architect and marble mason from Torino (Italy) who had settled in the Philippines, was hired by former Quezon City Mayor Tomas Morato, to beautify the monument with Carrara marble. Morató also hired Arch. Anselmo T. Alquinto (born 1905) to design the landscaping of the park. Morato’s successors replaced the Italian marbles with locally sourced marble.

Some of the 31 marble bas reliefs on Philippine history and the life of Pres. Quezón, created by the father and son team of Manuel and Ron Casal

Installed within the Shrine itself are two small museums, one containing the presidential memorabilia of Quezon (Museo ni Manuel L. Quezon) at its base, and the other containing items on the history of Quezon City.

Check out “Museo ni Manuel L. Quezon”

Entrance to the Museo ni Manuel L. Quezon

Quezon Memorial Shrine: Quezon Memorial Circle, Elliptical Road, Diliman,  Quezon CityMetro Manila. Coordinates: 14°39′05.1″N 121°02′57″E.

Metropolitan Museum of Manila (Taguig City, Metro Manila)

Metropolitan Museum of Manila

One of my regrets was I never got to visit the old Metropolitan Museum of Manila, an art museum that exhibits local and international contemporary art, that was formerly located in a building designed by Gabriel Formoso.  Located within the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas (BSP) Complex along Roxas Boulevard in the Malate district of Manila, it billed itself as the country’s premier museum for modern and contemporary visual arts by local and international artists.

Old Metropolitan Museum of Manila

The Met first opened its doors in 1976 with an initial exhibit of international artists to expose Filipinos to contemporary visual works in other cultures.  The first exhibit showcased 105 artworks, in various media, from the Brooklyn Museum and other American museums and galleries. Partly subsidized by the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas, the museum’s administration was entrusted, in 1979, to the Metropolitan Museum of Manila Foundation.

The Mariano K. Tan Centre

By 1986, its focus shifted to local works, extending its reach to more common people by offering bilingual exhibition texts and developing several outreach educational programs like workshops and symposia, thereby promoting local pride and identity. Then came the COVID-19 pandemic.

Museum Lobby

During the pandemic, the museum quickly transitioned its exhibitions and workshops online, with successful virtual exhibition openings and live conferences. At the same time, the famed institution was also gearing for another transition, arranged and made possible by the Chairman of its Board of Trustees, Joselito Y. Campos, Jr.

In the last few decades, the nearby important galleries and hangouts have closed down, moving to Makati and, later, to Taguig, plus the original home of 45 years (now permanently closed) was deemed inaccessible by many.

Plazas in the Philippines: Places of Memory, Places of the Heart

Thus, they decided to leave and move to its new location in Bonifacio Global City, an emerging cultural hub in Taguig City, as an integral part of the office and commercial building of the Mariano K. Tan Center.   The venue is near the sports park Track 30th and the High Street commercial center.

Points of Origin

Opened to the public in February 2023, it also got a new nickname – the short, catchy, and easily recognizable The M, plus a new logo to better herald the beginning of a new era for the institution.

Prior to its opening, it launched a preview of the new spaces with three exhibitions – “Ronald Ventura: Quick Turns on Hyper Highways,””Korea: A Land of Hats (presented in partnership with the Korean Cultural Center in the Philippines and the Coreana Cosmetics Museum) and “The Hat of the Matter” (supported by Bench, a global clothing brand).

Quick Turns on Hyper Highways

The purpose of my visit was to cover the recent opening of “Plazas in the Philippines:- Places of Memory, Places of the Heart” Exhibit which was curated by fellow architect and U.P. College of Architecture alumnus Paulo G. Alcazaren (also my boss when I was working with Mas Othman Associates).  Aside from this exhibit, there were also three other ongoing exhibits which I also visited.

Check out “Plazas in the Philippines:- Places of Memory, Places of the Heart,” “Jefre: Points of Origin,” “Ronald Ventura: Quick Turns on Hyper Highways” and “Sounds of Blackness

Sounds of Blackness (6)

The museum’s three floors of galleries house a collection of art and historical artifacts loaned by the BSP.  They include pre-Hispanic gold work and pottery; religious artwork and some artworks by Félix Resurrección Hidalgo. The rest of the museum is dedicated to Philippine contemporary works by various Filipino artists.

Anito (Arturo Luz, aluminum in rust finish, undated)

Upon entering the third floor, you are greeted by “Anito,” a towering 8-ft. high aluminum artwork, in rust finish, by the late Arturo Luz that took 8 people to transport into the space where it stands.  There are three ongoing exhibits there.

The M Collection

Its brand new, state—of-the-art 3,000-sq. m. space,plus an outdoor area for installations, was designed by the Manila-born, Brooklyn-based Filipino-Columbian architect Carlos Arnaiz.

Quick Turns on Hyper Highways outdoor exhibit

The entrance of the museum is accessed through an open pedestrian walkway that leads to the bustling and often busy Bonifacio High Street area of shops and dining places.  Now with access to more foot traffic, the museum will now be introduced to a new audience, thus reinforcing its philosophy of “Art for All.”.

Points of Origin outdoor exhibit

Metropolitan Museum of Manila: Mariano K. Tan Centre, 30th St. cor. 9th Ave., Bonifacio Global CityTaguig City, Metro Manila. Mobile number:: (0917) 160-9667. E-mail: info@metmuseummanila.org. Open Tuesdays to Saturdays (except on public holidays and other special notices). Pre-register a day before your visit. The museum offers free admission on Tuesdays.

The Ancestral Houses of Juban (Sorsogon)

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After breakfast and checking out of Residencia del Hamor in Casiguran, we again boarded our coaster for the 56.4-km. (one-hour, 15-min.) drive to Matnog Port. Along the way, we passed by the town of Juban and made a short stopover as we saw some well-preserved ancestral houses along the highway. The old bahay na bato (“stone houses”) of Juban were once the residences of some of the town’s richest families – the Bendillos, Guevaras, Grajos, Alindogans, Guarins, Lasalas and Gorospes.

Casa Feliz

One such structure that still exists is Casa Feliz. Built in 1898, the first owner of the house was Don Leoncio Grajo who was gifted this house by his father when he passed the bar exams in the early 1900s.  Leoncio was elected the First Representative of Sorsogon in the Philippine Assembly of 1912. One of the most beautiful old houses in Juban, it became Don Leoncio’s district office during his incumbency.

Casa Feliz

After his death, his son, Leoncio Grajo Jr., inherited the house. However, to pursue his career in Manila, the young Leoncio had to sell the place to his sister Lourdes Grajo Hubilla. As she grew old, Lourdes decided to transfer ownership of the house to Dr. Teresita Lasala-Ruth, a neighbor.

Lasala-Guarin Ancestral House

With the help of National Historical Commission of the Philippines, she really spent so much effort to restore this once almost dilapidated ancestral house. The restoration took over a year.  It was named after Dr. Teresita’s mother, Felicidad.  Jesus N. Lasala is the current owner of Casa Feliz.  The house was converted into a bed and breakfast with eight rooms.   Casa Feliz has annexes –Ann’s Garden (a function hall) and Café Jeronimo (a bar and restaurant), located a block near the old house.

Casa Feliz is not the only ancestral houses we saw along the highway in Juban. There are 3 more old houses nearby but these ancestral houses are private and do not accept guests.

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

Like most bahay na bato, the foundations of these two-storey, gaily painted houses are made from Spanish-style, solid stone blocks or bricks where the overhanging wooden upper-storey rests on. The exteriors typically have exquisite and tall capiz shell or persiana sliding windows, double eaves supported by diagonal brackets, ventanillas (small shuttered windows below the large windows with wooden balustrades),wooden moldings on the walls and calado (lace-like fretwork or latticework).

Today, the threat of demolition hangs over their heads to make way for the road widening project of the Department of Public Works and Highway’s (DPWH).

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS

These old houses, one of the well known tourist attractions of the province, are rich historical and cultural heritage sites in the idyllic town of Juban that are considered priceless gems that can never be replaced by road widening and progress. In lieu of the road widening, the solution I suggest is a bypass or diversion road be built a few kilometers before the town proper on vast tracts of idle or unproductive land that can be acquired, at a minimal cost, by the provincial government.

These ancestral houses should also registered as Presumed Important Cultural Properties under the Philippine Registry of Cultural Property.  For the time being, the provincial government can install their own plaques recognizing them as a Provincial Cultural Treasure.  These houses have survived World War II and natural calamities such as typhoons, volcanic eruptions and earthquakes. Let’s hope they survive the wrecking ball.

Casa Feliz: Pan-Philippine Highway cor. L. Grajo St., AH26, South Poblacion,  Juban, 4703 Sorsogon. Mobile number: (0919) 991-2297. Website: www.casafeliz.org.

How to Get There: Juban is located 545.3 kms. (a 13–hr. ) drive from Manila and 30.6 kms. (a 40-min.) drive from Sorsogon City, all via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Juban Municipal Tourism, Cuture and Arts Office: E-mail: jubanturismo@gmail.com.  www.jubansorsogon.com.ph. Facebook: www.facebook.com/JubanTurismo 

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel

Balay Buhay sa Uma Bee Farm (Bulusan, Sorsogon)

Balay Buhay sa Uma Bee Farm

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After our visit to Bulusan Lake Eco-Tourism Center, we proceeded, on a short 2.8-km. (7-min.) drive, via Bulusan Lake Rd., to the secluded Balay Buhay sa Uma Bee Farm for lunch. The 3-hectare Balay Buhay sa Uma Bee Farm (literally meaning “house of farm life”), a combination of a resort, bee farm and restaurant, is located on the slopes of the 1,565 m. high Mt. Bulusan in a verdant area in Sorsogon.

Check out “Bulusan Lake Eco-Tourism Center

The ornately designed gate, a backdrop for group picture taking, welcomed us. Upon arrival, we walk through the trellis lined pathway planted with summer blooms of hyacinth and bougainvillea.

Dining Pavilion

After a good 10 minute walk, we arrived at a small pavilion (open till 5 PM) built with bamboo, wood and other native materials, where a well laid lunch buffet table featuring local Bicolano food was served.

The author (left) at the Dining Pavilion (photo: Mr. Marlon Atun)

 

Fare included healthy options consisting of Bicol dishes such as adobadong suso (boiled edible freshwater snails in coconut milk), tinolang manok, deep-fried tilapia, pork belly salad (lechon kawali with salted egg), enseladang pako and pipino plus fruits in season, all washed down by melon juice.

Pork belly salad

Adobadong Suso

Deep-fried tilapia

A good, very attractive, relaxing, refreshing and colorful place to stay, there’s no internet, no TV, just peace and quiet.  Its garden has so many plants, trees and flowers, as well as fish ponds.

For those who want to swim or escape the summer heat, there’s Batis sa Uma, a very refreshing and nice, mountain fed cold water swimming area located at the farther end of the bee farm.

The author at Batis sa Uma (photo: Mr. Marlon Atun)

Batis sa Uma

Picnic huts beside Batis sa Uma

Along the way, we passed through the scenic view of the bee hives located on both sides of the trail.

Bee colonies

As its name implies, the place has an amazing 2,400 colonies of stingless ligwan (Apis cerana) and pukyutan (Apis dorsata) bees.  The bee farm started in 2003 with 38 colonies of European honey bees (Alis mellifera) which did not do well in this climate. In 2004, they shifted to 5 colonies of indigenous stingless bees brought by slash and burn farmers.

During the December 2015 Typhoon Nona, many colonies were lost.  From these colonies, they harvest pollen (about 230 kgs. each year), propolis (about 180 kgs. each year) and honey (about 750 kgs. each year packed in 25 kg. containers).

To harvest pollen, they remove a coconut shell and take out the contents.  From the bee pots made of cerumen, they then take out the yellow-brown lumps of pollen.  In partial shade, they scatter the contents.

Red button ginger (Costus woodsonii)

The bees come, collect the cerumen (but not the pollen) and take it back to their hive. The pollen is dried for three days and then packaged in bags and sold to wholesale buyers.  The propolis, on the other hand, is just washed with water and dried.

Aside from swimming, other activities you can do here are fish feeding, gardening and honey tasting.

Orange Bauhinia (Kock’s Bauhinia)

Philippine Catmon (Palali)

Easter Lily Vine (Herald’s Trumpet)

The DOT-accredited agri-tourism farmsite also sells a lot of organic products such as wild honey, honey-based products (soap, lotion, shampoo, etc.), turmeric tea and even pili oil, all produced by the farm.

Native-style cottages

For those who want to stay overnight, there are small, quite nice, native-style cottage with balcony. The air is cool so you don’t even need to use the fan.

The farm resort also has a reception area where you can hold wedding banquets or seminars.

Salon de Floren

Salon de Ligwan – serves hot and cold coffee, pasta and fries

The author (left) at Salon de Ligwan

Balay Buhay sa Uma Bee Farm: Purok Bacolod, Brgy, San Roque Bulusan, 4704 Sorsogon.  Tel: (02) 8986 4355.  E-mail: balaybuhaybeefarm@gmail.com. Website: www.balaybuhaysauma.com. Mobile number: (0910) 918-8599.  Open daily, 8 AM – 5 PM.  Entrance fee: Php50 (if buying food) and Php100 (if touring). GPS coordinates: 12.73943,124.09711.

How to Get There: Bulusan is located 557.3 kms. (a 13-hr. drive  via Pan Philippine Highway/AH26) from Manila and 44.5 kms. (a 55-min. drive) via the Junction Abuyog-Gubat-Ariman Rd., from Sorsogon City.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Bulusan Municipal Tourism Officewww.facebook.com/ExploreBulusan. 

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel.

Church of St. Joseph the Worker (Barcelona, Sorsogon)

Church of St. Joseph the Worker

Part of the Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After breakfast at Residencia del Hamor in Casiguran, we all boarded our coaster for the short 13.5-km. (20-min.) drive to the adjoining town of Barcelona.  Along the highway, we made a stopover at the fortress-like Church of St. Joseph the Worker.

The Baroque-style facade

Also known as Barcelona Church, the church was built in 1874 (during the term of Gobernadorcillo Juan Evasco) by Franciscan friars on a coral foundation.

The author at Barcelona Church

One of the oldest, most beautiful and well-preserved churches in the Bicol Region, it also has 1.5-meter thick walls made of hand-hewned anapog patched together by beaten egg whites mixed with lime and tuba (coconut wine).

Bas-relief indicating the year “1874”

From the church, an underground tunnel once lead to the town’s Spanish-era presidencia , across the street at the Barcelona Ruins Park, but it was closed to prevent thieves from accessing religious relics in the church.  Beside the church is Curia, a coffee shop.

Check out “Barcelona Ruins Park 

The church’s historical plaque

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The Baroque two-level façade has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by fluted pilasters and semicircular arched niches.

The second level has a statued niche, above which is a triangular pediment (above which is a square central bell tower flanked by a balustrade) with a centrally located oculus, flanked by circular windows.  Attention is focused on the central segment because of its advancing mass.

The church’s modern interior

The church has undergone several restoration works, the most recent being last May 2019. The church’s modern interior has beautiful stained glass windows and ceiling paintings,

The main altar area

Church of St. Joseph the Worker: Poblacion Central, Barcelona, Sorsogon. Feast of St. Joseph the Worker: May 19.

How to Get There: Barcelona is located 548.5 kms. (an 11.25-hour drive) from Manila and 27 kms. southeast of Sorsogon City.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Barcelona Municipal Tourism Office: mobile numbers (0908) 927-6481 and (0917) 348-7084.

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel.

Sorsogon Cultural Center for the Arts (Sorsogon City, Sorsogon)

Sorsogon Cultural Center for the Arts

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

The 2-storey, 2,638 sq. m., P77.6 million Sorsogon Cultural Center for the Arts (SCCA), also known as just the Sorsogon Cultural Center, is a state-of-the-art facility for audio and visual presentations.  It  is regarded as the second national cultural center of the Philippines, the first being the Cultural Center of the Philippines Complex in Manila.

Inauguration plaque

A grand place to cover film and broadcast arts, as well as literary and visual arts, its presence will encourage local artists to pursue their passion through numerous workshops, seminars, anthologies, exhibits, symposia, competitions, and awards. It aims to establish good network among local and regional artists as well as cultural workers in the country. The center will also be a venue for local communities for organizing their leisure, providing opportunities for self-expression, initiatives and cultural education.

Mohri & P.A. Associates, Inc. was the consultant (site evaluation & analysis, architectural conceptual planning and design, detailed architectural and engineering design, and budgetary project cost estimates) for the theater. Construction of the venue began on October 16, 2017 and it was inaugurated on December 3, 2022.

Outdoor lounge lobby

The facility has a total seating capacity of 515 (338 seats on ground floor and 177 seats on the mid-floor level) and houses exhibit rooms, offices, an outdoor lobby, lounge lobby, vestibule, spectators’ area, orchestra pit and stage for performances and shows.

Lounge lobby ceiling

Run and managed by the Sorsogon Foundation for Culture and the Arts, it is itself distinct as it is shaped like a pili nut which makes it uniquely Sorsoganon.

Performance stage and lower seating area

Sorsogon Cultural Center for the Arts: Sorsogon City Government Complex Diversion Road, Brgy. Cabid-An, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.

How to Get There: Sorsogon City is located 517.5 kms. (a 12–hr. drive) from Manila via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26. 

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel

Sorsogon Sports Complex (Sorsogon City)

Sorsogon Sports Complex

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

The 56,218 sq. m., four-storey world-class Sorsogon Sports Complex, formerly known as the Balogo Sports Complex, is a Roman Colosseum-inspired stadium built at a cost of ₱887 million (from the 2018 General Appropriations Act).  Mohri & P.A. Associates are the architects of this project.

The author at the entrance

This sports complex, when finished, will become the largest outdoor sports complex in the Southern Luzon and Bicol Region. It is scheduled to host the Palarong Bicol, PRISAA National Games 2023 and 2023 Palarong Pambansa.

The track oval, laid out with a Mondotrack (a prefabricated synthetic rubber track surface) all-weather surface, has 80 m. x 8 m. lanes, warm up side track and a 13,881.25 sq. m. stadium with a total seating capacity of 15,000 people (and a full house capacity of 20,000).  The ball courts were layered with tarmacadam asphalt or polymeric rubber crumbs.

It also houses facilities for meet officials, medical and press rooms, and male and female athletes dorm.  Also within it are the new Department of Education Building and Gymnasium.

Department of Education Building

The façade features Greek Corinthian columns and a gate adorned with two lion heads.  Started last January 11, 2019, it is still under construction by CT Leoncio Construction and Trading..

Sorsogon Sports Complex: Brgy. Balogo, East District, 4700 Sorsogon City, Sorsogon. 

How to Get There: Sorsogon City is located 517.5 kms. (a 12–hr. drive) from Manila via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26. 

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel

The Iconic Pansit of Cabagan (Isabela)

The iconic Pancit Cabagan

Prior to our return to the City of Ilagan from Cabagan, we took time out to observe the making of the festive, hearty and mouth watering Pancit Cabagan (a must try if you are in Cabagan) at Mariloi’s Panciteria and Restaurant, one the well known pansiterias in the town.  Here, we were welcomed by owner Ms. Marivic Tagao who would demonstrate how this unique, saucy pansit dish variety is prepared.

Mariloi’s Restaurant

But first, the history of the origin of the uniquely delicious Pancit Cabagan (or Pansi Cabagan, pansi being the Ybanag term for pansit), considered as one of the most popular food in the province and the Cagayan Vallley and a symbol of the town’s culture and heritage.

Just like any other noodle dish in the country, Pancit Cabagan is of Chinese origin. In 1887, according to a research conducted, a group of Chinese traders, originally from Amoy (now Xiamen), China, landed in Aparri (Cagayan). Among them was Sia Liang (also known as Diangga) who married Augustina Deray Laddaran, a Filipina, and established a panciteria in Cabagan during the pre-war period, using ingredients that were locally available at that time.

Today, many roadside eateries and restaurants in this town offer their own take on this very filling noodle recipe. This pansit version makes use of miki noodles (made with wheat, flour, lihiya and eggs) and eggs similar to that of Tuguegarao’s Pancit Batil Patung (translated as “beat the egg” and “place on top”).

The pancit’s toppings – veggies, lumpiang shanghai, lechon carajay, meatballs, quail eggs

However, the eggs are boiled and not poached. Quail eggs (pugo) are commonly used to make this dish.  This pansit version also has more sauce (sweet and salty) compared to the others. The noodles are not submerged in sauce or broth, so this cannot be categorized as mami (noodle soup).

Ms. Marivic Tagao

Marivic showed us how the miki noodles were cooked in oil in a wok, Upon draining, the already prepared toppings that make this pancit truly delicious are were generously added – bite-sized slices of lechon carajay (crispy pork belly boiled with spices and deep fried), lumpia shanghai (fried egg roll), meatballs, quail eggs, a medley of veggies  and cooked igado (stewed pork liver).  This was served with calamansi (Philippine lemon).  We all took turns trying out this iconic dish.

The restaurant also serves delicious bulalo (soup with bone-in beef shank), beef mami, chicken mami, pares (braised beef stew), lomidinuguan (Filipino version of blood stew) and papaitan (a bitter soup made from cow’s innards). The flourishing noodle industry of the town has spawned the annual Pansi Festival (every January 16-25, the patronal Feast of St. Vincent Ferrer) that includes events such as a noodle contest, beauty pageants and cultural and sports competitions.

Mariloi’s Pancieria and Restarant: Maharlika Highway, Brgy. Cubag, 3328 Cabagan (near Isabela State University-Cabagan Campus and beside 4J Hotel), Isabela. Mobile number: (0917) 505-1269.  E-mail: marlontagao@yahoo.com. Open daily, 7 AM – 10:30 PM. Coordinates: 17.41936,121.79452.

How to Get There: Cabagan is located 458.1 kms. (a 10-hr. drive), via the Pan Philippine Highway/AH26, from Manila and 45.4 kms. (a 1-hr. drive) from the City of Ilagan.

Balay San Jose (Santa Maria, Isabela)

Rancho Agripino

After our pottery tour at Brgy. Poblacion 3, we again boarded our bus for the short 7.1-km. (20-min.) drive, via the Enrile-Santa Maria Rd., to Balay San Jose within Rancho Agripina, owned by Santa Maria Mayor Hilario “Larry G. Pagauitan, whose Sanctaurio de San Jose (a favorite wedding venue) and Casa di Spiritualita di San Giuseppe (a retreat center) are visited by tourists and religious pilgrims.

Entrance

Upon entering the gate, our bus drove along a dirt road lined with life-side statues depicting the Stations of the Cross (Via Crusis).

One of the Stations of the Cross along the road

Upon arrival, we first dropped by the Sanctuario de San Jose, a chapel was built in memory of Maria Lourdes Gatan Pagauitan (November 19, 1988 – June 12, 2008), the mayor’s and his wife Sofie’s late daughter who died in a car accident. It was solemnly blest and its altar dedicated on November 19, 2015 (Maria’s birthday) by Most Rev. Sergio L. Utleg, D.D., Archbishop of the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Tuguegarao.

Sanctuario de San Jose

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The chapel has a two-level Baroque-style façade topped by a triangular pediment and flanked by three-storey, square bell towers topped by a dome and cross.  The first level has an entrance portico (topped by angel statues) which has a statue of St. Joseph with the Child Jesus and is flanked by, flat pilasters, 3 semicircular arch stained glass windows and a semicircular arch statued niche.

The second level has a similar set up, the only difference being the statued niche above the entrance portico.  The triangular pediment has a circular, stained glass rose window within a bas-relief of a Jerusalem Cross, a cross potent (or crutch cross) with four Greek crosses.

The first two storeys of the flanking bell towers have semicircular arch blind windows while the receding third storey, housing the church bell, has open, semicircular arch windows.

Statue of St. Joseph and the Child Jesus

The left bell tower has the sign of “Banal na Pag-aaral Center, Area 11, Northern Luzon.”

The chapel interior

The main altar and its retablo

Inside the chapel are three altars (main and two side altars) with exquisitely carved retablos (altar backdrop), a painted barrel vaulted ceiling, colorful stained glass windows, religious statuary and a triforium (interior gallery)

Casa di Spiritualita di San Giuseppe

Main entrance

Connected to the chapel, on it’s left, is the Casa di Spiritualita di San Giuseppe (St. Joseph House of Spirituality), which was solemnly blest on September 19, 2014 by Bishop Joseph A. Nacua, O.F.M., Cap. D.D. of the Diocese of Ilagan.  This retreat house has has 42 airconditioned rooms with private bath, four dormitories (two large and two small), refectories, conference hall, lunch room, chapels and a beautifully landscaped garden.  In front is an open air lanai topped by a view deck which is accessed by stairs.

The author at the viewdeck

Open-air lanai

In front of the chapel are statues of Christ Resurrected, St. Michael the Archangel and Tablets of the Ten Commandments.   On the right side of the chapel is a tableau depicting Christ Appearing Before his Disciples.

Statue of St.Michael the Archangel

Tableau of Christ Appears to His Disciples

We also dropped by its museum which is filled with reiligous statuary of all sizes, paintings, photos  and other religious artifacts such as monstrances, chalices, crucifixes, etc..

Museum of relious statuary,paintings, photos and artifacts

Also within Rancho Agripino is St. Joseph Library, Lourdes Chapel, Casa di Marello (for visiting priests and brothers of the Oblates of St. Joseph founded by St. Joseph Marello), Galilee (a cluster of airconditioned huts in the middle of a lake), Chapel of the Santo Sepulchro and the Risen Lord (a chapel with the image of Our Lady of Sorrows and the Risen Christ), The Hermitage (a solitary place for those who want to be alone with the Lord), a helipad  and a medical center (MLGP Medical Center).

MLGP Medical Center

Helipad

Balay San Jose: Rancho Agripino, Brgy. Calamagui West, Santa Maria 3330, Isabela.

How to Get There: Santa Maria is located 451.1 kms. (an 8.5-hour drive) from Manila and 67.8 kms. (a 1.5-hour drive) from the City of Ilagan.

The Potters of Santa Maria (Isabela)

The pottery of the Ybanags of Santa Maria, Isabela

On our fifth day in Isabela, we boarded our tour bus for the long 85-km. (2-hour) drive to Santa Maria where we were to observe the indigenous Ybanag method of producing pots and earthen ware.  Along the way, we crossed the Cagayan River via the Cabagan – Santa Maria Overflow Bridge (usually impassable during heavy rains) which will soon be replaced by the still unfinished, 720 m. long, 12-span, P639.6 million Santa Maria-Cabagan Landmark Bridge.

Santa Maria-Cabagan Landmark Bridge

Upon arrival at Brgy.Poblacion 3, one of four barangays engaged in pottery making (the others are Poblacion 2, San Rafael West and Quinagabian) located in the interior northwestern part of the province, we were welcomed by Santa Maria Vice-Mayor Michael Abraham G. Pagauitan and Municipal Tourism Officer Rex T. Arao.  After registering ourselves at the barangay hall, both toured us around the center of pottery making in the community.

Municipal Tourism Officer Rex T. Arao (center) with members of national media

The unique indigenous pottery traditions of the Madweng inan Ybanag community showcase the Ybanag (or Ibanagculture as a whole. Their pottery products differ from other ethnographic people with the way they make this earthenware which they call dweng, an Ybanag term derived from Madweng, referring to an Ybanag  potter who makes and sells pottery products made from clay and other indigenous materials.

Members of national media

Santa Maria boasts huge non -metallic deposit of clay (davvun) or mud containing minerals and other organic materials which are similar to those plant and animal remains which is the basically the main ingredient of the dweng (pot). The dweng products of Santa Maria include pots for cooking purposes, vases, storage jars, garden and home decorations and bricks.

Since 1954, save for a minimal technological advancement in manufacturing pots using the hurmaan ( molder), there have been no major changes in the method of manufacture from the teachings of the Kalingas. Like other tribes of the Cordillera Central as well as the Bukidnon, Tausug, Pampango, and Cebuano, they use a technique called “paddle and anvil.”

Finished products for viewing

However, the Pampango, Cebuano, and Tausug use an anvil made of stone while the Mandukayan Kalinga use their hands to shape the pot and press its walls thin, then the inside is smoothened by a curved piece of bamboo.  The Ybanag pottery tradition was introduced by the Kalingas.  Forming the dweng products of Santa Maria does not happen in single hour or day. To assure its quality upon utilization, it involves various stages and processes in their pottery making.

Scrap wood, garani (rice straw)and carabao/cow manure is inserted in spaces between the pots in preparation for the baking process

First, the davvun, from vast lands nearby, are delivered to their community via a careta, carts pulled by tamed animals. The soft davvun (clay) is first manually pounded and then stored in a humid place covered with plastic ready for the Madweng to mammakkal, the process where the clay is being formed in round balls ready to be hollowed.

Ms. Ruby Canceran, a more than 20-year veteran of pottery making, hollowing out the clay

The molded clay is then wrapped individually with plastic to maintain its moisture, ready for the next stage – the matuvugan (from a root word tuvug meaning “in addition”). In this process, davvun is being added to increase its height and width. Gradually, as it widen, a pempel (a rectangular, flat wooden paddle) is used to paddle the pot while inside is an adadamma (a flat stone) which supports the appepe (a flat wooden paddle used to give shape).  All the while, the Madweng paddles to ensure the right shape of the earthen jar. They then need to be dried and covered again for some hours to form the lid of the pot.

A Madweng woman using a pempel (a flat, wooden paddle) to ensure the right shape of the jar

In the mabibigan (from the root word bibig meaning “mouth) stage, the lid of the pot is formed with the appepe on the outside, opposite a smooth batu (stone anvil to hollow pre-molded round balls) held inside.

Using a potters wheel

Likewise, a kingkil, an inch wide bamboo stick, is used to scrape and smoothen the rough portion of the pot. The walls of the pot are systematically and carefully made thin, smooth and even with the aid of a lupedas or gami, a soft wet cloth used for trimming the edges of the rim of the pot during the finishing stage. It takes an hour to dry.

Using a bamboo stick

After it dries, the pot is ready for the matumpo stage where the pot is turned upside down. As the pot does not yet have a foot to stand up on its own, the base needs to be leveled or flattened using the appepe and the batu to stand.

The next stage is the matakyang (from the Ybanag term meddan tu takki na meaning “to add support”). In this process, a tȁgang (a pre-formed clay patterned from the lid of an aluminum pot) is designed to hold the pot in place until it dries.

Maffulang (painting) stage

After this process is systematically done, the pots are now ready for the maffulang (painting) stage.  A kind of davvun is used to color or paint the pots red.  For a while, the davvun is soaked in water to soften the soil, ready to be kneaded, until it becomes fine.  The residue is strained to ensure the finest quality. In this stage, a commercial paint brush is used to paint the pot to its natural look. To facilitate the painting faster, a potter’s wheel, manually operated by the foot, is used to yield more than a hand does.

After mafulla stage, the pots will be dried for a while.  They proceed to makkili stage where uneven or rugged parts of the pots are scraped and a lupedas used for the finishing touches. Next is the akkingki , another step to keep the pots shiny.

Garani (rice straw)

When this is done, the pots are now ready for the last stage for all kinds or types of dweng – the magabba or maluttu (firing, baking or cooking) stage.  Magabba is an Ibanag term which means to cook or “mallutu.”  This stage is usually done in the their own workshop or within an open area adjacent to their houses. This busy and laborious day for the potters, done with so much prudence and caution during the hottest ray of sunshine, takes a whole day, from the preparation down to cooking and cooling.

Carabao/cow manure

In the cooking area, the dweng is arranged on top of the evenly scattered pieces of dried wood or the carabao/cow manure and evenly covered by garani (rice straw) as each side is protected by unused or rejected dwengs, in anticipation of a possible collapse happening. Then the firing begins. Depending on the products and its volume, cooking hours ranges from a minimum of 3 to 5 hours. This indigenous way of cooking has been introduced and practiced for a long time and until the present.

Magabba (baking stage)

How to Get There: Santa Maria is located 451.2 kms. (a 10-hr. drive), via the Pan Philippine Highway, AH26, to Manila and 7.8 kms. (a 1.5-hr. drive) from the City of Ilagan.

Municipal Tourism, Culture and Arts Office: mobile number: (0905) 692-1342.